We have discussed on the hanson list; extending the Gammill table to allow more sewing area and to prevent the Wonder Disc from banging into the belly bar. We also moved our quilt top fabric take-up roller to the top of the end brackets on both sides to allow the take-up roller to be lifted manually to straighten batting. We are pre-pivot access with our Optimum so those of you with Pivot Access don't need to move your roller. Gammill Company recommended a 7 inches maximum extension for the table. (The Classic and Optimum use the same table.) This is more than enough to extend the table for the Wonder Disc. Those of us using the Bob Hamlin's Big Base don't need to extend the table at all. However, if you don't use either, you don't need to extend your table unless it was assembled wrong so that the belly bar makes contact with the sewing head. If you move the quilt top take-up roller from below to on top you WILL lose sewing area and you will NEED to extend the table to recover the sewing area lost in the changeover of the take-up roller's position. The nice thing is you can always go back to the stock take-up roller position at any time should you NOT like the changeover. As you should already know, both Marcia Stevens (in her first video) and Bob Hamlin in his video cover this procedure in their videos. If you don't have their videos shame on you. You have time to order them now, view them and then when I upload the close-up photos in January you will be all set to go. <g> Hopefully, you have viewed their videos before making this modification.

Final comments: ALL of us......... so far......... have discovered that when we moved the quilt top take-up roller to the top position the amount of table vibration while sewing has decreased. In some cases dramatically in others not so much, but still noticeably less. This is a hidden benefit to moving the roller to the top position that we hadn't anticipated. Also, we have discovered that we DON'T need to lift the take-up roller as we expected to have to do. By having the bar raised up on top we have total access to the batting and can straighten it as we progress/roll. We also raised our take-up bar an additional one inch and find there is less drag on the batting while advancing the quilt ending the dreaded batting "Spiral Creep" phenomenon. <g>

The thumbnails used below have beveled edges to differentiate them from regular photos. So it's not your monitor or graphics card. <g>


bolts2extend.jpg (39993 bytes)

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Notice the two bolts going straight up. These two bolts are on the underside of the table end support (with two more on the other end of the table). Loosen the two bolts until you can move the square tube within a square tube to extend the table out to the left (for the angle this photo was taken). Move a few inches, then do the same thing at the other end of your 12 or 14 foot table. Move out one end then the other end. You can do this by yourself, after you have seen it done, but I would recommend you get help. If you pull the table out too far you are left holding a lot of weight and you will have difficulty re-inserting the square tube back into the other square tube. The gray cabling under the table off to the right side of the photo is part of our Statler Stitcher.


boltstoextend.jpg (46733 bytes)

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Here is another view of those two bolts. The aluminum housing in the top right of the photo is our X axis motor for the Statler Stitcher.  


overallview.jpg (47753 bytes)

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We rolled the batting up for this quilt. Sometimes it hangs down over the belly bar and we roll the batting up (so it is off the floor) onto a piece of PVC tubing about the size of the rollers. We loop two nylon straps (like a belt) around the belly bar (one on each end). We use the straps to hold one end of the PVC batting bar. This keeps the PVC batting tube directly below the belly bar about a foot. Sometimes we use a smaller diameter PVC pipe going through the center of the batting PVC tube to help cut down on the rolling resistance. It depends on the type of quilt bat, the width and the length.


aquiltloaded.jpg (44938 bytes)

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This is pretty much the same content as the previous photo. But, different enough that I decided to use it as well. That white PVC in the lower right houses our Y axis motor for the Statler Stitcher.


otherendview.jpg (32885 bytes)

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This is the end of the top fabric bar without the hand wheel on it. The hand wheel end has the ratchet cog arm on it. We used two pieces of rectangular steel tubing to raise the bar another one inch higher than the saddle. The steel is 6 inches long x 1 x 1.5 inches in cross section. We haven't seen the steel bar used before. You can try it without it and add it later. However you will need 4 inch bolts if you don't use the steel tubing. We had to use 5 inch carriage bolts to accommodate the white half inch PVC and the thickness of the steel bar. You need four length of half inch PVC all cut to 1.75 inches. Two for the other end of the bar also. In the photo you see white male Velcro between the 6 inch steel piece and the black frame previously used to fasten the straps off your clamps.


goodview.jpg (36019 bytes)

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The black frame already has the holes drilled for you to move the roller to this top position by the Gammill factory. You will need to expose the holes using a knife to cut the white Velcro that covers the opening of each hole. The frame also has a hole for the cog arm's bolt which you can barely see below the bolt at about the 7 o'clock position. However, when you add the steel tubing you will need to drill another hole to move the cog arm so it can reach the gear from its higher position.


wheelview.jpg (42839 bytes)

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This photo shows the saddle when viewed through the wheel. You can use the nuts and washers from the old position when you move the saddle up onto of the frame. But, you need the longer bolts. The masking tape with "Carrier" written on it was from the factory or the dealer who set our machine up. So I don't know if yours would have such a label.


originalhome.jpg (41457 bytes)

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Here is a view of where the original position of the saddle was. The saddle was originally mounted on the left side of the vertical bar. One bolt came out above the "Top Fabric" label and one bolt came out below the label. The cog arm was bolted to the short horizontal bar on the left side of the vertical tubing.


Changes: added additional text